Wednesday, April 8, 2015

Bon voyage, Anny!


Annie left this morning after just over a week here. We headed out to find her a taxi to the Gare de Lyon slightly after 7 am, toward Blvd. Voltaire. The streets were pretty quiet on this national holiday. We turned toward Nation and made it all the way to the taxi stand (a very long block) before seeing one. The driver parked and hopped out of his car to put Annie’s bag in his trunk. He was happy to accept a short fare to the Gare, only a five minute ride away. I explained where she had to catch the Air France bus, and he asked if she knew the schedule. Bien sur! She turned to thank me and tell me what a wonderful vacation she had had, and we hugged and both shed a few tears. I hope we’ll get together in Cleveland soon after I get back!

It was lovely to have a friend here, someone to sit with in cafés, with whom to go to museums and markets, with whom to eat dinner.  Relishing the simple joys of companionship and making sense of the world, together.  I miss Roy’s presence, sharing the same space with him every evening, reviewing our days, reaching out to touch him. It’s so ordinary, like brushing your teeth and having cereal for breakfast, until you’re apart for longer than is ever normal.

So having a childhood chum here was quite special and greatly appreciated! Tomorrow, it’s back to school for most of the day.

Sunday, April 5, 2015

Café life: 31 mars 2015


Had a fruitful and fun session of field observations today at ma petite école. The principal greeted me with his usual early morning gusto and told me that he had something special for me. He said that one of the teachers I have observed and interviewed let him know that her group is having a conference next Friday, April 10th at 16h30. This is the day after Bree and Jakob arrive but since it’s in the late afternoon, it’s perhaps a good time for them to rest. The subject of the conference parallels my research focus: immigrant children and their academic success. The teacher who brought it to my attention will be attending, so I hope to see her there, in the 13è which will be a new quartier for me this trip.

Now, the sun has come out and Annie and I are sitting at Pure Café in my Parisian neighborhood. The café sits on a V-shaped corner between two streets (Paul Macé and Impasse Franchemont), with room in front of it for several bistro tables and chairs for warmer days. As we enter, a sign offers, “PURE AFTERWORK: Tous les jours de 17h à 20h, coupe de champagne 7 Euro", so I plan on imbibing. We move to the back of the café and sit next to each other on a banquette behind a table, the better to watch the café world go by.  We take out our writing tools and eventually start writing. We also order une noisette and a café au lait. Miam.

The café is beautiful, filled with bright natural light from the floor to ceiling windows which make up its walls. The triangular bar itself occupies the center of the space, with traditional zinc counters. The espresso machine takes up a large section of one side and bottles of wine line another side. Liquor bottles are hung, upside down in some serving contraption that must be used to accurately measure out shots.

Two thin middle-aged women walk in and their matching outfits scream, “We are jumelles!” They are both wearing form fitting red wool coats, with twin brown leather ankle boots. They have matching shoulder length Lautrec-ian red hair, with lilac colored scarves wrapped around their necks. A group of older men standing at the bar greets them as they walk by on their way to join an old friend, also standing at the bar. We notice that their handbags are slightly different. They order coffee, stay for 15 minutes or so, and then head out with their friend.